As surfers, most of us dread the first touch of a cold patch in the water knowing a full suit is just weeks away. When I pull up to the beach in my warm clothes the thought of opening the door just makes me feel cold. I am reminded of putting on my soggy wet suit mixed with seeing my breath in the air. My feet feel like stumps on the cold wet sand. And even though the first touch of that freezing water always hits me like an ice cream headache I do seem to have fun when I am finally in the water. All of us eventually get through the cold season in hopes for a warm and amazing summer. I include myself in this annual wait for summer. I dream about the smell of coconut, the warm sun against my skin, bikinis, the freedom from a wet suit, and salty warm water. These daydreams haunt me especially when I am in my house tightly wrapped in a sweatshirt and my feet tucked in several pairs of socks. But as much as I absolutely love summer, I wait for October. For the month of October is truly magical.
These past two October’s have been so memorable and packed with amazing surf sessions filled with south swells, offshore winds, and nose rides. There have been many waves that I have tried to remember the days seem to slowly blend into each other. Now they are faded memories that I hope to experience once again.
October is a month of warm reds and orange skies from both breathtaking sunsets and a surreal atmosphere created by California fires. I cannot wait to run down to my favorite spot and feel the cool water on my skin. The sun is warm on my face and there are lingering cold patches in the water awaiting the change of the season. But until then, I know I am having the most fun in these moments of a spectacular October.
My favorite feeling is the moment of darkness of the wave just breaking over me and as I get speed, get a glimpse of extraordinary turquoise blues and lime greens going down the line. And if I am lucky, the hot pink and red colors of the shimmering sun pierce through the shallows of the water. Aside from the visual beauty of these luminous days, the waves seemed to have voluntarily formed lines off the point just for me. The feeling of being on the nose of board is the closest I will ever get to flying, and sometimes I think it might be better.
I don’t get sad when summer ends, I wait. I smile knowing that maybe October will shine for me once again. Until then I savor the last south swells and warm days. Feeling the nights getting cooling down and the water temperatures fading, I know that my sweatshirt and several pairs of socks will keep me warm and I can dream about the next October.
~Miss H